Written by Andy You
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Something I’ve been getting into lately is leather boots/shoes. Most people have a pair, yet most shoes are not high quality and will not stand the test of time. So, how should you buy quality footwear?
As we’re discussing leather footwear here, the rule of thumb is that you want as many parts to be made of leather as possible – i.e. the lining, upper, insole and potentially the outsole. Then, the shoe needs to be built to last, which means there needs to be stitching processes used.
Let’s talk about materials first. The lining is the part that caused me the most strife. As it is inside the shoe and not visible to others, it’s sadly common to see brands cheap out on this component using faux leather or synthetic textile materials. However, as it is constantly in contact with your feet and taking stress from your movement, it was always the part that broke down the fastest for me. For a balance of longevity and comfort, a shoe should have a soft leather lining such as lambskin, calfskin, or kip leather.
For the uppers, it is worth noting that not all leather is equal. Generally speaking, the brands willing to disclose which tannery their leather is sourced from are likely using the best quality leather. Failing that, “full grain” leather is generally best.
Examples of tanneries include Horween (Chicago), Annonay (France) and CF Stead (England).
The insole is the footbed you stand on, which signals whether the shoes are built to last or not. For most of what you will find at the shops, this will be synthetic/foam-based; however, I would stress that a leather insole is best – preferably a thick one, too. This is due to leather’s ability to shape and mould to your feet with wear, a process of “breaking in”. Your feet are not perfectly flat on the bottom, so whilst a leather insole is stiff under your feet initially, this shaping process will change the insole into a custom fit and ultimately offer the most long-term support and comfort.
The outsole is the part that contacts the ground on the very bottom. Traditionally, this is also a thick piece of leather or rubber that can be used for traction or durability. The best shoes will use sole stitching processes to provide additional durability. Most low-quality shoes will be constructed with glue alone. Look for brands disclosing the main sole stitching methods, such as Goodyear welting, hand welting, stitch down, or Blake/Mckay stitching. There are differences between these stitching methods, but they are all signs of high-quality construction. However, many brands will use false stitching for aesthetic purposes.
The upper leather can vary a lot depending on whether you are looking for a rugged or dressy style. Dressy shoes typically use softer leathers such as calfskin or pigskin, whereas rugged boots will use thicker adult steerhides or non-cow leathers such as kudu, moose, or bison. Suede variants and exotic choices such as crocodile, alligator, or ostrich leathers can also be used.
If you are new to this, unfamiliar terms may be used here – let me know if you have any questions in the comments below!
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